SFTF 2018 – Let’s have just as much fun in 2019, but without the stress!

At every year’s end we are all encouraged to analyse the year gone by and then make resolutions to do things even better in the coming year. Well I think Celine and I would be hard pressed to have a better year in 2019, but I am quite sure we can have just as much fun!!

2018 was decidedly busy for us with a couple of long trips, one ‘down under’ and  the other back ‘across the pond’. There’s no yellow brick road guiding travellers to the Oz we visited, but it is a country with a lot of magic, and being predominantly populated by migrants from the ‘old country’, it is an easy place for Anglo-Saxons – and their English-speaking wives – to find their way and feel at home. Crossing the Atlantic however, is a very different kind of journey and however many times we have both done it, we never cease to be surprised by what we find in dear old continental Europe.

We both enjoy travelling, as much for the adventure of discovering new places as for the enjoyment of returning to old pastures. Or so we thought when we planned our trip to Italy this autumn. “Let’s have a look at those regions of the country we haven’t seen before, for surely they will be every bit as good as the Italy we already know!” Lesson number one: Do not assume, and don’t take the recommendations of others at face value. Lesson number two: There may well be good reasons why one part of a country is so much more popular than another.

Lesson number three is a harder one to swallow. Just because you have enjoyed a country several times before as a tourist, does not automatically justify the corollary “hence it must be a really great place to live”. [If you haven’t already read my previous post “SFTF Italia o Portogallo Pt.5 Decisions, decisions . . .or rather a lack of same!” you may be wondering what leads me to this conclusion.] My migration to Long Beach CA to start a new life with Celine has some relevance to this lesson. My few short visits for various family gatherings prior to taking that step totally failed to educate me about the Californian lifestyle. I followed my heart in making the decision, and have absolutely no regrets in that regard. However, my previous habitats of semi-rural England, lakeside dwelling in Canada, plus a couple of short sojourns in hot dusty Kuwait and tropical Nigeria, in no way prepared me for a life in the seemingly endless megalopolis that surrounds Los Angeles. So I have to admit our recent peregrinations have been prompted by my wish to return to a lifestyle more suited to my ‘needs’ and, happily, Celine has been a more than willing fellow traveller but with slightly different expectations.

Perhaps with the exception of our trip to Australia, which was very much an adventure for its own sake, the journeys we have taken in recent years have all had the underlying goal of finding that perfect place to build our new nest. Unfortunately we have not been as successful as we might have hoped, for a lot of reasons which I do not intend to reiterate here. The result is that we are now having second thoughts about the whole idea of re-establishing ourselves in Europe. Indeed we have resolved to go forego foreign travel for at least the next twelve months and give more consideration to staying in the USA. After all we have family here on both sides of the continent, including especially four delightful grandchildren whose growing pains we enjoy being part of; and its going to be several more years before they will be joining the ranks of young globe-trotters able to visit us in far off places.

So what are we looking for???

Our combined needs and wishes for the perfect nesting site make for a complicated conundrum; collectively they fall into two main categories, location and site features. Location involves geography, climate, the natural environment, access to local shops, markets, cultural pursuits, fitness classes, health facilities, and these days more than ever, local political and social agendas. The features of a site that are relevant to our search are all the usual things, condition, age, size, garden, garage, basement, neighbourhood,  and so forth.

As to the specifics of our particular ideal nest specification, we would love to find a well maintained two/three bedroom home with enough space for a “granny annex” and with a view of nature at its most glorious. This should be within a small garden to keep flowers on the table, fresh veggies in the diet and green fingers out of mischief. And to nurture our creative selves we would need space for a studio for my artistic wife, a garage or workshop for yours truly and of course . . . a study . We want to be  close by a fair-sized town and yet not surrounded by dreary suburbanisation. Weatherwise we are conscious that advancing years and several decades of living in sunny south California have, between them, made the prospect of us accepting a life with temperatures regularly hovering around freezing point insupportable. At the same time we would like to enjoy once more the beauty of changing seasons, but without the need to shovel snow on anything more than a very occasional and rare basis. Geographically we remain undecided whether mountains or the sea are the more desirable background to a contented life; both have their virtues but an unspoiled view of the ocean nearly always incurs an undesirable financial penalty. The potential for hurricanes, severe flooding and uncomfortably high humidity for prolonged periods in the summer are also things we can do without.

The next question is where on earth, or, now we have for the moment taken Europe out of the bucket, at least where on this vast North American continent, can we find such an ideal place? California is fine in many ways but by virtue of its, in my opinion, highly over-rated climate is on the whole over-priced. Moving further north to Oregon or Washington appeals to the nature-lover in me but the prospect of numerous days of wet rainy and/or misty weather holds no charm for Celine. Continuing up the map and returning to my second homeland of Canada, in particular the coastal areas of British Columbia, ‘God’s Country’ to its devotees, is probably a non-starter for much the same reasons, although the prospect of a better national health service, and an increased pension for me, are quite appealing. Large mountain ranges and barren deserts harbour the extremes of weather that both of us wish to avoid so that would seem to eliminate a few more of the Western states; however, Colorado and perhaps some parts of Arizona stay on our must-visit list. The vast section commonly called ‘middle-America’ is a region about which I know almost nothing, apart from the weather that people experience there, and we don’t see many billboards, or read many articles, suggesting that the place we are looking for might be found there.

So we are left with the Eastern seaboard of which I have some brief experience, having lived on that side of the continent for many years and taken vacations with my family to New England and the Outer Banks of North Carolina. I also recently read Bill Bryson’s “A Walk in The Woods” which makes a good case for the Appalachian Mountains, and as I write, my son Tom and his family are considering a move to South Carolina. Keeping well away from Washington DC and New York and all that those two great cities imply in their own fashion, we are left with the pretty countryside of New England – too cold in the winter, Florida, Georgia and perhaps South Carolina – hurricane territory and far too humid in the summer, plus North Carolina, Tennessee, Kentucky and the Virginias, all of which have some beautiful countryside.

I have no idea what all this is leading to, and even less idea about when and where we will find that idyllic nesting ground. So for the next few months we will plan nothing, keep a careful eye on TrustedHousesitters.com and HomeExchange.com and see what, if anything, turns up trumps. It would also be a good time for me to get back to writing my ‘memoirs’, which was, after all, the original reason I set up this blog site. And then at the back of my mind I still have the feeling that we should go and explore a bit deeper into Portugal, though not the Algarve, and have we really rejected Central America in its entirety!!

Any and all suggestions will be gratefully received and carefully considered. Thanks for reading and I will keep writing. See you again soon!

 

SFTF Italia o Portogalla Pt 3 – Ten days with International Living

Taranstales

October 17, 2018

Tuk-tuks everywhere in Lisbon. Great way to save the masses from climbing too many hills. We took a group tour of Lisbon this way, but didn’t learn much about the city as our driver wasn’t very communicative!!

Nine days of sunshine gone by, five hotels experienced, rides taken in at least four different coaches, the knowledge of three local guides thoroughly tested, at least two house purchases initiated and one very tired but totally dedicated tour leader looking forward to a few days of well-earned R & R, all combined to mean that thirty-six willing participants could face the ominous black clouds showing up over the mountains above Mijas with complete indifference. For the next day we would all be rising from our sixth different bed, grabbing our tenth tour breakfast, making fond farewells to our several new-found friends and going our separate ways; the heavens could open and threatened lightning could crash, but our tour was ended and nothing could take from us the memories of new places explored and potential new home-sites discovered. 

But what had the past ten days of “life according to International Living (IL)” really achieved? Were Celine and I actually a whole lot wiser about the benefits that might be gained by re-defining ourselves with new lives in either Portugal or Spain? Did the tour leave us with a useful impression about life in either of those two countries, or did it merely whet our appetites to learn more for ourselves? 

Our fellow travellers had a wide variety of reasons for their presence in our midst. Some, like us, were seriously interested in the idea of starting a new life in a new country and had a definite penchant for the Old World so well represented by these particular two countries. Finding a surefire investment property inspired some to tag along, though without a clear interest in actually setting down new roots for themselves. And a few had very little experience of foreign travel and saw this tour as an opportunity to safely expand their horizons. With such a diverse audience it was always going to be difficult to satisfy all tastes!

A group with many different interests, tastes, and abilities. Quite a challenge for our tireless guide!

The meeting point for us all was Lisbon, the capital of Portugal and the type of city that does attract tourists but is primarily very much a place where people work and lead quite ordinary lives. For that latter reason it is a delightful place for one to walk around and to imagine oneself becoming part of the life of the city, and not an eternal tourist. Unfortunately for Celine and I, that was not the feeling we would get from much of the rest of the tour. It is of course the intent of our hosts to seduce their charges with the delights that are on offer in the regions they are promoting; for many who are visiting a country for the first time, it is the places where foreign tourists congregate that are the biggest draw. I suspect that is the reason International Living chose venues in Portugal’s Algarve region and Spain’s Costa del Sol as the main hubs for our delectation.

Our stay at a resort in Carvoeiro was lovely, but going into town for dinner quickly reminded us that this was “Little England”.

However, for me as an Englishman it was not very exciting to be visiting areas that are both rather uncharmingly known as “Little England” to the locals, and where English is spoken more commonly than either Portuguese or Spanish. Indeed Francesca, our Spanish guide in Costa del Sol, recounted a recent visit there to a dry-cleaners where they spoke no Spanish at all, and Celine and I were served in a cafe in Marbella by a lass from the East End of London who also spoke not a word of the local lingo! I find this to be a very sad reflection on the many, mainly English, ex-pats who are so obviously uninterested in the customs, culture and food of the country wherein they choose to live, and are unperturbed by the process of deculturisation that they are a party to. And why the obsession with golf courses, those large tracts of land set aside for the exclusive use of the minority that are a source of environmental pollution and water wastage?

We all had at least one thing in common, a desire to taste the local vintages! And a sample of the local cheeses also went down pretty well.

Yet in spite of these negative feelings, we both enjoyed many aspects of the tour. It was a novelty for us to be driven everywhere and have so few decisions to make; and our fellow travellers provided us with plenty of entertainment, both intentionally and unwittingly. Indeed the camaraderie was very appealing and we thoroughly enjoyed chatting with everyone, and learning why, or indeed if, they were contemplating a new life in the Old World. For us, life in Europe holds few surprises and returning there from America seems a fairly logical progression in our lives. It must be very different when you have grown up being told that your country is the centre of the universe, and discovering so much that is strange and rather threatening. Of course it is to help people overcome those misgivings that Il arranges tours such as these and I am sure that many of our group felt comforted by what they saw and were introduced to, however much I might like to disavow them of such feelings.

Ronda in Spain’s Malaga region was particularly beautiful, perched atop two rocky outcrops separated by a deep ravine.

On the positive side, by no means every place we visited was tainted with the smell of fish and chips, lager louts and menus in English only. Some of the small towns, particularly Ronda and, to a certain extent, Evora and Tavira, appeared positively “liveable” and made more than a few of us open our eyes to the possibilities they might offer to us prospective ex-pats. The visit to the wine cellar of Jose Maria da Fosca, one of the oldest wineries in Portugal, introduced us to the fascinating ancient art of oenology, whilst confirming my belief that muscatel was rather too sweet even for my sugar-loving taste buds. We saw some beautiful countryside with rocky mountain backdrops, we stood on a clifftop at the most westerly point of mainland Europe and we visited the first bullring to be built in Spain.

The first bullring to be built in Spain is in the beautiful hilltop city of Ronda. Some three hundred feet in diameter it is also one of the largest, and has covered seating for nearly three thousand spectators.

We enjoyed a brief stay in Sevilla and on our last couple of days were pleasantly surprised by the elegance of Malaga, enough for me to mentally disenfranchise it from ‘orrible anglicised Costa del Sol. 

The handsome port city of Malaga that seems to have survived the tourist onslaught without losing its soul.

Luckily Celine and I had spent a few days on our own in Portugal before we joined the IL tour and this provided us with a much better idea of what that country might have to offer. [See previous post “Italia e Portogallo 2018 Pt 2 – Lisboa no rio Tejo”] Continue reading SFTF Italia o Portogalla Pt 3 – Ten days with International Living